Chimaera > STEERING WHEEL NOT QUITE CENTRAL

I successfully made a splitter from plastic guttering, and after 3000 miles of abuse it is still in one piece and hasn't destroyed any bodywork, so I thought I would share this with you.

Chassis Nut and Bolt Sizes

I have a pit too. 6ft long, 3ft 6in wide, 5ft 6in deep, approx. Pretty generous. I'm a fairly big 6 footer so I wanted to be able to work on the Chim just by driving over it. I can get front or back over half of the pit while the other half (with the steps) is open for access, and I can leave the handbrake off and pull the car over the top if I need access to the other end of it. This is also useful for a bit of peace and quiet! I had it excavated when I levelled the plot for the garage and driveway, with a mini digger, and finished by hand - well shovel actually. Steel reenforcment was driven into the ground and also into the walls, and these were tied. I then constructed formwork in sterling board with a timber framework, leaving 4in gap for the concrete. A extra formwork boundary went around the top, 4in outside of the first, to create a ledge for the woodwork that would cover the pit (2in x 10in timber). I had cut steps into one end; after the concrete had set and the formwork was removed (I left it a week just in case) I then built new formwork for the steps and concreted those separately - the reenforcing rods were already in place and tied in with the rest. Floor is as yet unfinished, but I will lay concrete at some point. Several years on there are no problems with damp, and the garage itself is 18in below garden level, never mind the pit, and we have very wet clay soil. the walls stay completely dry (4in thick, not surprising!) so there is no risk in a solid concrete floor, but I will dig a soakaway and leave a drainage grille anyway. I had intended to paint the walls but never got round to that. I also laid power in conduit through the concrete base before it was laid, but haven't connected anything yet - a couple of sockets and some lighting would be useful!

This is not inconsistent with an LSD. Bear in mind that the degree of locking is proportional to the amount of torque being applied. So in operation the more power you put through the input shaft the harder the clutches inside the diff bite and progressively lock the output shafts to eachother (in effect).So on the stands with the engine idling and the wheels off the ground , there is virtually no resistance to the wheel turning so almost no torque being applied (only that needed to overcome internal friction in the diff and rear hubs), so if the LSD is working properly there should be little limited slip effect. tryinhg to drive the car with a broken halfshaft is like having one wheel off the ground- so no resistance to rotation on that side so no torque reaction and little if any locking up of the diff. Stopping the spinning wheel should just make the other output shaft double its speed, like on a normal diff. Depending on the type of limited slip mechanism and the amount of wear / mileage on the diff there may be some pre-load or residual stiffness / drag in no load conditions (the Jag' Salisbury diff on my XJS is quite stiff if you try turning one raised wheel with the other fixed or on the ground). Your diff would have to have a massive amount of preload to be able to make the car move as above, i think I'd be more worried if it did! Incidentally which diff have you got GKN, BTR or even Hydratrak! ?

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